Daniel Roseberry presented his first ready-to-wear collection for Schiaparelli. It was not just Roseberry’s first ready-to-wear collection for the brand, it was Schiaparelli’s first ready-to-wear collection to ever hit the runway. Elsa Schiaparelli left behind many legacies, but perhaps her most enduring was her famed combination of fashion and art.
The designer became famous for her couture, but it was her distinct codes that set her apart from the rest. Now, in an age of mass branding, the house pays homage to Elsa’s vision that ensured that her clothing was always unique. For his new collection, Daniel Roseberry kept to these codes to present a full wardrobe, from white poplin shirts to velvet cocktail dresses, while infusing them with Schiaparelli’s trademark wit, irreverence, and drama.
Appealing to a global audience
The collection represented the house’s global audience and Schiaparelli is known for its powerful and distinctive creations. For the Schiaparelli woman, “quiet” doesn’t work. She wants pieces infused with the brand’s codes – sharp tailoring, graphic knitwear, subversive denim, and subtle leather, all embellished with tromp l’oeil ornaments and gold hardware. This new collection features new signatures combined with traditionally masculine fabrics and tonal shades.
The collection
Key looks from the collection include a shawl-collar coat that is buttoned up in black, compact wool with dove-inspired, exaggeratedly rounded sleeves, decorated with enamel and gold-toned brass buttons. An oversized parka is crafted from technical satin padded with feathers and adorned with golden hammered brass buttons. The parka is worn open, atop a quilted cardigan jacket trimmed with a strip of leather. The balaclava is crafted from black cashmere and decorated with golden brass rivets.
Accessories
For its first-ever ready-to-wear collection, the brand has expanded its accessory offerings. Building on the success of the brand’s golden toes, which adorn boots and rubber wellies, it introduced a keyhole plaque in velvet and patent. The brand has also welcomed bijoux in the form of gilded lilies, oyster shells, giant keyhole doorknocker earrings and oversized hammered golden cuffs inlaid with shearling and enamel padlocks.
The Schiap
While the collection is filled with extraordinary pieces, perhaps the star of the show is The Schiap, a trapunto baguette that references the design of the house’s ground-breaking 1937 fragrance, Shocking. The bag features a riff on a classic profile as opposed to following current trends. As with all the house’s bags, The Schiap is also finished with hammered brass hardware detailing coated in a 24-carat gold finish.
“So often in this town (and in this industry), the product becomes less creative the higher you go,” said Daniel Roseberry. “But Ela permits us to imagine what it means to be fearlessly chic, to trust our instincts. And so that’s what this collection is about – clothes and accessories that exist at that impossible crossroads, between what’s forever stylish… and what’s perfect of its moment.”
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