Phoebe Philo (Instagram, site), the creative genius who once graced the helm of Celine and Chloé, is back and ready to redefine fashion. After much anticipation, Philo’s eponymous London-based label is here, backed by the luxury powerhouse LVMH. This triumphant return was initially announced in July 2021 and, after a slight delay, is finally here, alongside a collection that’s nothing short of spectacular.
Phoebe Philo needs no introduction. Her design philosophy centers around timeless elegance, and she has breathed life into her new venture with the same ethos. The debut collection is more than a mere fashion line; it’s a ‘seasonless, continuous body of work,’ according to a release, and this is just the beginning as drops will be appearing regularly.
Phoebe Philo’s first edit, aptly named A1, is a breathtaking composition of ready-to-wear, leather goods, and accessories, featuring 150 distinct pieces. These sartorial treasures will be released in three drops starting on October 30, 2023, with more to follow in the months ahead. A second edit, A2, is already on the horizon, slated for a Spring 2024 release. It’s a strategy that mirrors her Celine days, where trends took a backseat to timeless, enduring fashion.
Philo’s artistic vision extends beyond clothing; it’s a commitment to responsible fashion. Her business model is designed to strike a balance between production and demand, ensuring that quality triumphs over quantity. And it’s working—so much so that the website initially couldn’t handle the surge in demand for Philo’s unique creations.
As you dive into her collection, you’ll encounter a fashion narrative that harks back to her Celine era. The pieces are elegant yet playfully unconventional. You’ll find mannish tailoring, woolen overcoats, trench coats, and cargo pants seamlessly blending with her signature style, like roll-neck sweaters that dare to rise to the chin and capacious bags for the contemporary woman. A statement biker jacket steals the show, oversized and cinched at the waist, paired with black polyamide leggings featuring a wave motif—a dash of 1980s-inspired brilliance.
Daria Werbowy, a former muse at Celine, graces the images, casting an enchanting aura alongside other models. Philo’s collection also boasts unexpected surprises, like garments adorned with combed embroidery, cleverly mimicking the look of fur. And let’s not forget the trousers that zip all the way down the back seam—a daring stroke of sensuality. An asymmetric silk dress, cut daringly high on the thigh, infuses a similar allure into the collection.
Philo, a fellow Central Saint Martins graduate who rose to fame with her takeover of Chloé, went on to achieve cult status at Celine. Her designs redefined contemporary women’s lives, giving them clothing that was not just fashionable but practical. The power of her creations lies in her innate understanding of how women truly live and wear fashion. As she once said, “I came about it through wearing it… it’s always that,” a philosophy that shines brightly in her latest collection.
And so, the world welcomes Phoebe Philo’s return to the fashion stage, with her eponymous label carrying forward the legacy of impeccable style and enduring elegance.
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