Rooted in Self: Chemena Kamali’s Debut for Chloé

Crafting a collection for the contemporary Chloé woman

Rooted in Self: Chemena Kamali’s Debut for Chloé
Mariana Baião Santos

In her debut collection for Chloé (Instagram), designer Chemena Kamali (Instagram) seamlessly blends the House’s signature elements with a contemporary approach, bringing a sense of whimsy back to the brand. There are few experiences as profound as returning to one’s roots. For the designer, reconnecting with Chloé isn’t just a professional endeavour; it’s a deeply personal journey—one that evokes the warmth and familiarity of coming home for a fresh start.

Chloe FW24
Chloé FW24

This latest collection is a testament to the intimate bond between creator and house. With each stitch and silhouette, there’s a palpable sense of emotional connection, to the legacy of Chloé, to its timeless spirit, and most importantly, to the women who embody its essence.

As a love letter to the brand the creative director writes: “I want to bring back the feeling I had when I first stepped through the doors here 20 years ago and fell in love with the Chloé woman’s spirit. I want to feel her presence again; her beat, her natural beauty, her sense of freedom and undone-ness. The glow, the radiance and the energy of that girl. She is real. She is herself.”

Chloé FW24
Chloé FW24

For Kamali, dressing is more than just adornment; it’s a journey of self-discovery, a reflection of how women evolve and define themselves at every stage of life. With this collection, the aim is clear: to return to the roots of Chloé and craft a vision that exudes sensuality, warmth, and positivity.

Looking back to the iconic styles of the late 1970s, this collection pays homage to a bygone era of natural femininity, where power emanated from a place of effortless grace and authenticity. Through fluid silhouettes and intuitive design, the goal is to capture the essence of the Chloé woman: dynamic, contradictory, and unapologetically herself. Yet amidst this celebration of heritage, there’s also a nod to the future, a recognition of the evolving desires and aspirations of modern women. This collection is a reflection of the times we live in, an ode to nostalgia tinged with a sense of anticipation for what lies ahead.

Chloé FW24
Chloé FW24

Drawing inspiration from bohemian chic aesthetics, Kamali introduces revealing transparencies and high knee boots in earthy browns complement the nature-inspired palette. Playing with lengths and sizes, a bag larger than a dress, sleeves extending beyond the hemline, creating an interplay of volume and scale. The introduction of the ballerina clog, a playful twist to classic footwear, while subtle logo details and contrasting materials lend a contemporary edge to the designs. Gold jewellery adorns various body parts, enhancing the collection’s ethereal aesthetic and adding a touch of opulence to each look. With long, wavy hair and a sense of effortless grace, the models embody the spirit of the Chloé woman.

Chloé FW24
Chloé FW24

At its core, Chloé is about empowerment, about giving women the freedom to express themselves authentically, without constraint or compromise. It’s a philosophy that harkens back to the visionary spirit of Gaby Aghion, who founded the house over seven decades ago with a bold mission: to liberate women and embolden them to embrace their individuality.

Ultimately, this show is more than just a runway presentation; it’s a tribute, a dedication to the guiding forces that shape our lives. For the designer, that tribute extends to a cherished loved one, to a father whose influence and support have been instrumental in shaping her journey.

Chloé FW24

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