In the dynamic landscape of contemporary masculinity, Valentino (Instagram) returns to Paris with their Le Ciel 20.24 Menswear Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection, by creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The collection embarks on a profound exploration of colour through garments. The pieces, presented at Le Monnaie de Paris, represent a continual interrogation and resignification of masculinities, delving into the very fabric of what it means to be a man today, while simultaneously questioning the current connotations of the colour blue.
Over the past century, a narrative has unfolded, redefining the perception of the colour blue from feminine to masculine. Once tethered to a traditionally feminine identity, later a synonym of male, in Valentino blue now undergoes a re-imagination and liberation from historical expectations. This shift serves as a reflection on the fluidity of societal structures, prompting a rethinking of garments and their inherent meanings.
The Valentino Le Ciel 20.24 collection challenges conventional notions, where the blue of the sky, the colour of free thinking, becomes a symbolic lens through which the multifaceted nature of contemporary masculinity is explored. As an ode to craftsmanship, the collection introduces a special technique—Valentino Altorilievo (High Relief)—that opens windows into the clothes, and which is applied across the shoulders of jackets, breaks and subverts stereotypical masculine emphasis, adding an extra dimension to the pieces.
The colour of the sky, permeating trousers, shirts and bags, stands out alongside highlights of pink, green and red in a collection characterised by a sombre pallet and timeless pieces. The inclusion of more feminine bags challenges traditional gender norms, exemplifying the fluidity of contemporary menswear. The melding of traditionally masculine and feminine elements becomes a tangible representation of the evolving landscape of masculinity.
Within this fashion narrative, the blue hues, once confined by societal expectations, now symbolise a liberated masculinity—an emancipated expression that embraces nuance and welcomes reinterpretation. The collection stands as a testament to the ever-changing landscape of what it means to be a man, offering not only the usual visual feast of the brand, but a profound reflection on the fluidity of gender roles and the limitless possibilities that lie within the realm of contemporary menswear.
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