In an ever-evolving, Anthony Vaccarello, the creative mind at the head of Saint Laurent (Instagram), has masterfully redefined the essence of the iconic style for the House’s Winter 2023 collection. With precision, emotion, and reticence at its core, this collection is a testament to the brand’s enduring appeal and its ability to adapt to the ever-changing times.
The collection’s sense of classic precision is most evident in the bold new blazer with its sharp shoulder line. This piece serves as the starting point, dictating the fabric choices for the entire collection. A structured jacket meets flowing layers of cloth, often accompanied by a signature scarf that seamlessly blends with blouses or drapes down as a stylish stole. The result is a striking juxtaposition that defines modern elegance.
Vaccarello breaks down gendered exclusivity, effortlessly incorporating classic items like blazers, leather bombers, and tank tops into the women’s wardrobe. Traditional masculine motifs like pinstripes, tartans, and glen plaids take on a timely femininity, embracing lightness and fluidity.
The collection works with the interplay of transparent and opaque materials, featuring chiffon, crepe-de-chine, mousseline, and sheer stockings. The Saint Laurent woman can confidently reveal or conceal her body as she desires, showcasing an empowering sense of control and freedom.
At the heart of this collection lies an essential silhouette – a confident blazer paired with a slim pencil skirt. This timeless look takes on a new meaning through refined details, luxurious materials, and a minimalist approach that strips away unnecessary ornamentation, bringing the classic Saint Laurent uniform into the present. Evening looks are elevated with slim cashmere pants, combining modern ease with sophistication.
The venue for the show drew inspiration from the opulent ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel, where Saint Laurent showcased its Haute Couture collections between 1975 and 2001. Vaccarello brings this era back to life by incorporating striking bronze chandeliers and a uniquely shaped runway into a contemporary black-box setting. It’s a fusion of past and present, a celebration of Saint Laurent’s rich history with a bold step into the future.
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