Since his appointment at Moschino, Jeremy Scott’s codes have become indistinguishable from the house of Moschino, and it is no more evident than the house’s menswear collections. For Spring-Summer 2023, Scott paid homage to the artist’s iconic oeuvre and iconoclast approach.
The Spring-Summer collection was Scott’s first all-menswear show since joining the house. The motifs, faces, and figures from the show were replications of Viramontes pieces, especially his contribution to The Face magazine and Buffalo styling movements of the eighties. Viramontes was a polymath, clad in lively, pop, bright colours.
“I wanted to shine a light on this brilliant creator,” says Scott. “He may not be a household name, but Tony Viramontes is a force.”
The collection comprises pieces that include abstract visages, bright and attenuated colours, expressive strokes that cover Moschino’s signature shapes, and new silhouettes. Long and short shorts, pleated skirts and sarongs, tapered pants, and roomier trousers all feature in a collection that places tailoring at centre stage in the form of blazers, suits, and topcoats have been given the polychrome treatment.
“You will have different themes and inspirations,” the designer said afterwards, “But I’m always trying to bring my own love, passion, and ways of doing things to it.”