Yesterday Miuccia Prada presented Miu Miu’s SS/23 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week. In a collection made up of simple denim bandeaus and flannel bra tops, it might have been the pencil and pleated skirts that stole the show.
The collection was diverse, complex, and nuanced in colours that referenced utility uniforms. The show opened with long-sleeved undershirts that were layered and tugged down – creating mini dresses. These were alternated with windbreakers and lightweight utility parkas.
The collection was presented through a cast of genders, challenging conventions and embracing a new reality. Cottons, silks, and cashmeres were shown in a neutral colour, while nylon tricots came in sharper hues. The interplay between the colours creates a surface texture and decoration that is evoked through the garments.
For Miuccia Prada, fashion is a way of translating a reaction to reality into material form, and her Miu Miu SS/23 collection is not only a reaction to the world around us, but aims to become a part of that world. It is a collection that explores the idea of a transferral of feeling and response into result.
The SS/23 collection was presented with numerous gender-fluid looks, where male models walked the runway in denim suits, crisp slacks, and leather zip-ups. Miuccia was in a playful mood and sent out a male model donning a black skirt paired with heel boots. If you have been keeping up to date with Yung, you’d know that skirts are as much male as female right now.
In keeping with her support for female creatives, Miuccia Prada linked up with Chinese artist Shuang Li, to create a video installation that is focused on nature. Previously she had linked up similarly with Meriem Bennani for Spring 2022.