Milan has long been considered the capital of menswear. The city is host to some of the world’s most renowned menswear designers, but one of them stands above the rest – Giorgio Armani. Milan’s 88-year-old designer has been crafting impeccable collections for his eponymous label season after season. For the famed house‘s latest collection, Armani FW 2023, Milan’s leading menswear architect turned to the city itself for his inspiration.
The show was everything we have come to expect from the Milanese genius. The customary three-piece suits appeared on the runway, one black, the other blue. The silky-looking ensembles both featured raised rivulets that looked exactly like the veining found in the marble of the show’s set at the designer’s palazzo on Via Borgonuovo. The show notes would later confirm that the collection was indeed inspired by the architecture of the city.
All the pieces from the collection featured an element of the city’s architecture that stood out to the eye. Leather bags, padded jackets and a mixed material sweatshirt were crafted to reflect the ground floor rustication that is a prominent feature on some of the city’s old buildings. Jacquard knits featured zigzags and geometric gridding that mirrored the marble-inlaid communal spaces that are found in buildings throughout Milan. The wools, velvets, and cashmere, all in grey, were an ode to the city’s carved stone doorways.
Twill overcoats and plaid trousers were accompanied by velour vests, cargo bottoms, and furry animalistic printed outerwear. Giorgio Armani’s interpretation of smart casual could be found in cardigans, pullovers that featured the brand’s monogram, and leather ensembles that all seemed to be laden with military inspiration.
The penultimate chapter of the show featured Giorgio Armani skiwear for those who enjoy high altitudes in the snow season. The ski collection featured puffed outerwear as well as Après Ski uniforms and everything else you might require when gliding down the slopes. Just after the skiwear portion of the show ended, Armani played his hand. Five male and female couples passed over the runway in black velvet suiting and evening wear. Armani FW 2023 Men’s is a collection for all seasons and all occasions.
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