Diesel FW/23 Experiments with Freedom, Pleasure and Play

Diesel shows a focused, experimental and ambitious collection

Diesel FW/23 Experiments with Freedom, Pleasure and Play
Yaseen Dockrat

In its FW/23 collection, Diesel explores and experiments with freedom, pleasure, and playfulness.


In a experimental, bold collection, Glenn Martens explores the notion of freedom and accessibility, core ideals close to Diesel’s heart. These concepts, brought to life through distressed denims, layered fabrics and the exposing of hidden elements – serve as the basis of a collection that is both playful and fun but that also speaks to inclusion. Inspired by these ideas, the label’s new collection is focused, experimental and more ambitious than ever before, but at the same time, it is accessible, with its signature denim cut low on the hips, and bleached with whiskers. Martens has brought Diesel’s famed denim tops and moulded them and the ever-present leather is distressed to reveal metal logos. 

Developed in-house, Diesel’s denim devoré delivers the effect of distressed jeans but reveals the skin beneath. This is a collection that is full of temptation as the body is exposed through distressed openings on oversized shirts, jeans and denim knits, skirts, and dresses with the occasional crystal embellishment.

Glenn Martens has taken distressing to a whole new level, as seen on the laser-cut jersey dress. Laser cutting appeared on utility hoodies, sweatpants, and dresses, while double-layer jerseys were laser cut to reveal the colour of the fabric beneath. Printed tops and shorts all feature laser cutting to reveal creases and prints beneath, while screen prints showcased Diesel branding, as seen on the black and white hoodie with SUCCESSFUL writ large on the front.

Silk dresses were held in place by draped chains, while bandeau jersey tops are held by a metallic D-shaped collar and the collection also featured some upcycled pieces. Existing materials, like biker denim, were metallized, while shearling jackets have been bonded with denim and then distressed to reveal the shearling again. Martens repainted deadstock faux fur, covered it in plastic and heated it to create a liquid fur effect, while technical biker jackets were blow-torched to create their own unique and extreme architecture.

Footwear came in the form of slip-on heels that were draped in diamante. Denim boots featured utilitarian pockets. But the highlight of the footwear was the new sneaker, the Prototype 3, which features an oversized sole that grows upwards. The new D-charm bag was quilted in padded denim and is accented with a charm chain. 

The Diesel FW/23 collection is playful and free while shedding light on social issues and it’s wonderful.

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